Freelance writer, Babu Basu finds his stomach bullied into submission and practices the national sport of haggling.
Back in the mists of time, the people of Kolkata ate to live. In a country where sustenance was scarce, people ate enough, just enough.
Over indulgence was saved for weddings, birthdays and major religious occasions.
To show you cared, you fed. To Indians the concept was clear:
If you liked someone, you fed them.
If you loved someone, you overfed them.
And if you really really loved someone, you fattened them up to sell at market.
At a time when we didn’t eat well, this wasn’t a problem. The occasional bout of gluttony was a good thing. It bolstered the spirit and the body.
But times have changed.
Over the years, the world developed more efficient farming methods, increased levels of prosperity and decreased levels of physical activity.
More and more of us ate more and more.
As India joined the modern world, the diet became modern too.
Initially, Indians began to eat better. They were now head and shoulders above their forebears. And stronger too.
Mortality rates fell and the quality of life shot up.
Then, the really modern diet hit.
High fat, high sugar and low fibre became the norm, along with diabetes, high blood pressure and heart disease.
Attitudes changed.
Suddenly it became normal to be overweight. Obese people were referred to as ‘quite healthy’. The notion of a ‘desirable weight’ grew to accomodate expanding waistlines.
Look round Kolkata now and you’ll see billboards advertising milk, featuring overweight children. The suggestion is clear, use this product and your children will be well fed and fat as these children.
Suddenly obesity has become aspirational.
Now you understand the mindset, I can introduce the concept of:
“Eat, eat!”
For years, relatives would surround me with food.
“Eat, eat”, would be ringing in my ears and in my belly. My hosts took offence if I couldn’t eat atleast my own body weight in one sitting.
It also became clear that if I hadn’t been in India for two years, I needed to eat two years worth of food during my two week stay!
If I ‘d consumed twice the amount of food I’d normally eat, that was an poor show on my behalf. Surely there was something wrong with me. And if not, there eternal question,
“Are you dieting?”
Eating light is never an option here. Feigning illness is your only route out.
Thinking about it now, perhaps I don’t bargain enough. The next time I’m overfed, I should haggle.
I won’t eat everything, but if I eat another spoonful of food, or finish another bowlful of dessert, perhaps they’ll harass me less. Haggling after all is in their blood.
Haggle, haggle, haggle.
For those of us used to ‘fixed pricing’ in shops, haggling is a real education.
Shopping is a minefield of over charging and petty squabbling.
Prices are no-where to be seen.
Instead, buyers are required to ask, “How much?”
And so it begins…
The sport of haggling…
The buyer and the seller go back and forth in time honoured tradition. The battle moves forward thus…
The seller states his inflated price. (It’s usually a he).
Then the buyer (usually a she) scolds the seller for his price and tells him that his products aren’t that fresh.
The seller counteracts by claiming that he has the best produce in the market.
The buyer prepares to move onto another stall. The seller then plays his trump card – the price mysteriously tumbles.
The buyer then stops and considers the produce with renewed interest. Perhaps the goods aren’t quite so bad after all.
As the produce is bought, the buyer offers another a scolding. “The produce better be good, or there’ll be trouble!”
The seller for his part, reassures the buyer that the produce is A-grade and throws in a bit of flattery for good measure.
How could he ever sell someone so wise anything that wasn’t up to scratch?
With that, money and goods are handed over and the game draws to an end.
The fixed price game
To dissuade Indians from haggling, (a national sport, second only to cricket), certain shops display a ‘Fixed Prices’ sign in their window.
To the uninitiated or less brave, this sign signals the end of haggling. The goods are one price, and that is that.
Erm….
To the brave shopper, or the not so busy shopkeeper, it is merely another step in the game of haggling.
Sellers state their price. Buyers complain and demand a discount.
Sellers point to a sign that says ‘Fixed Price’.
Buyers moan and think about leaving the shop.
Sellers keep buyers in the shop, showing them better produce
Buyers ask “What is your best price?” Sellers sigh and give a discount.
Buyers accept and money is handed over.
Both parties have played well.
Foreigners complicate the game
If the seller suspects you of being a foreigner, then the rules change.
Prices treble before your very eyes and discounts diminish.
The seller assumes that as a foreigner, you have no idea of the correct price. Nine times out of ten, they’re right. My advice? Go shopping with locals.
The seller initially puts out a foolishly expensive price. He then is soundly rebuked by all in the shopping party.
The seller, now suitably admonished, pulls in his prices and alters his demeanour. He knows he’ll know have to work harder to get that sale.
It amuses me that in a Communist led province, trade can be quite so ‘entrepreneurial’. The local government, not known for its energy or ability to get things done in a hurry could learn a lot from its enterprising citizens.
How does a seller know if you’re a foreigner?
Now, you might think that only people of a different skin colour are obvious ‘foreigners’. But you’d be wrong.
Indians who live in England, Europe or America are easy to spot – even before they open their mouths.
They look different. They act differently. They even stand differently differently.
You can spot a non-local Indian way across a crowded room or noisy market place. They really do stand out.
In cities like New Delhi, or Mumbai, where fashions change and money swirls about, spotting foreign Indians is much harder.
Not so in Kolkata.
Foreigners are seen either as innocents, or mysterious puzzling creatures from strange places. Why are they here? Why are they among us?
It’s as if E.T. landed in the middle of South Kolkata and demanded to know,
“How’s it hangin’?”
But it’s not all bad news. Being a ‘mysterious foreigner’ can be glamorous too.
The movie star is here.
Kolkata, more than any other city, makes me feel like a movie star.
People will stare at me wherever I go.
Whether it’s my clothes, my skin colour (a few shades lighter then most locals), my height (about a foot higher then some people) or something else, I know I stand out.
At first, it’s quite disconcerting. People stop and stare. But you get used to it.
Surprisingly, my presence has stopped traffic, halted conversations and even slow kids playing in the street.
Some people pass me off as a minor Bollywood star, whilst others think I’m a new cricket player. In a cricket obsessed country, that’s a huge compliment.
I don’t have the guts to cash in on this ‘fame’. I have yet to demand the best seat at a restaurant, or say those immortal words,
“Do you know who I am?”
Join me next week when I look at Bengali food, discover a Chaucerian attitude to spelling and ask, “Is having a great meal reason enough to get married?”